Baltic cruise in November: Helsinki – Stockholm – Helsinki

I was excited about visiting Stockholm, Sweden, and the excitement grew when a ferry operator announced a ticket sale. I managed to get a two-night cruise for just 24 €. I would call that a bargain.

Stockholms stadshus, the City Hall © lighthorizons.art

I have taken this day-trip many times, but I cannot say that I know Stockholm particularly well. So I am not going to be telling anyone what they should do there. Instead, I thought I would share what a typical day in Stockholm looks like for me. Yes, I have a typical day in Stockholm. Or Tukholma, as us Finns call it – the capital of our big brother and neighbour, Sweden.

Ferry Helsinki – Stockholm

The ferry from Helsinki takes around 17 hours each way, leaving about five and a half hours in Stockholm before the return journey to Finland. I travelled with Viking Line. The ferry left Helsinki at 17:00 (5 pm) and arrived in Stockholm at 10.10 the next morning. It departed Stockholm at 16:00 (4 pm), Swedish time, and arrived back in Finland at 10.10 the next morning, Finnish time.

On a side note, I cannot write about these two cities without thinking of this 2000’s rap song:  Stockholm-Helsinki by Fintelligens ft. Petter and PeeWee

Stockholm has plenty of 20th and 21st centuries’ architecture © lighthorizons.art

Onboard a ferry between Finland and Sweden

I always enjoy sailing through the archipelago at both ends of the journey. I try to find a seat by the window or spend some time out on deck, watching the picturesque houses along the water.

For the rest of the journey, I browse duty-free shops, trying out perfumes, and check out the bars, cafes and restaurants on board. Even when the bars and their shows don’t appeal to me, it can be fun to witness people of different styles and ages join the same slightly silly activities. Travelling by ferry is entertainment in itself.

Clubs, games and bingo might not really be my thing, but I found a wine bar upstairs and enjoyed a glass of champagne with live music – a pianist playing jazz and singing. I also find the buffet very appealing, and the food quality is surprisingly good on these long journeys.

City Hall garden view © lighthorizons.art

A Day in Stockholm

The route from the harbour to the city is simple. Just follow the waterfront until the narrow streets of the old town, Gamla Stan, begin to appear between buildings.

Saffron bun in November sun © lighthorizons.art

I walked past Fotografiska towards the old town and stopped at Bröd & Salt by the water. It is a café chain, but I like this particular place. They offer sandwiches, salads and various sweet buns. I bought a saffron bun and enjoyed my fika on the terrace, making the most of the rare rays of sunshine in an often rainy autumn.

Statues in Gamla Stan © lighthorizons.art

Art Museums

I checked the current exhibitions at Fotografiska, the museum of photography, art and culture, near the harbour, but none of them particularly called out to me this time. Still, as I walked past the museum on my way into town and back, I found myself wishing I had a reason to visit. Fotografiska Stockholm has never disappointed me.

I also checked the exhibitions at Moderna Museet, the museum of modern and contemporary art on the island of Skeppsholmen,  across the water. A few years ago, it hosted an exhibition of works by Hilma af Klint, and I still find myself thinking about The Ten Largest, a series of paintings depicting the different stages of human life. Perhaps one day the museum will show the exhibition again.

Strolling around: Gamla Stan, Norrmalm, Kungsholmen

I spent most of the day wandering around the city, enjoying the architecture, cafés and shops. The sunny weather kept me outdoors, so I decided to save a visit inside City Hall for another time.

Stockholm Central Station, Norrmalm © lighthorizons.art
Stockholm City Hall on Kungsholmen © lighthorizons.art
Entrance to Stockholm City Hall © lighthorizons.art
St. Clara’s Church, a historic church in Norrmalm dating back to the 16th century. Inside, I found lovely music and an inviting scent from the candles © lighthorizons.art
Room for Language. One of the signs read: “Norwegian is quite like Swedish, German a bit more different, but Finnish is completely different.” A small exhibition at Kulturhuset in Norrmalm. © lighthorizons.art

Back to ferry

I had a lovely day in Stockholm. The sun was shining warmly enough for me to take off my coat and enjoy some snacks outside. The ferry left the harbour at 4 pm, with the last minutes of daylight disappearing as the ship slowly made its way towards the open water.

The ferry is visible, making it easy to underestimate how long it takes to walk from Gamla stan to the boat. © lighthorizons.art

Other ferry routes

The ferries on this route make a brief stop in Åland, but unless you have booked your ticket to the islands, you might barely notice it. Åland is an autonomous region of Finland and a great place for a cycling trip in the summer.

There are also similar ferries running between Turku and Stockholm. Turku lies west of Helsinki, so the journey is shorter. The archipelago off Turku is beautiful, and during the long, light summer evenings, I recommend staying on the sun deck and letting your mind drift with the changing scenery.

When was the last time you saw paper posters? © lighthorizons.art 

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